FABRIC: MOLLUSK-PURPLE DYE

Regions: Oaxaca

Fabric Name:
Mollusk-Purple dye

Species/Origin:
Pinclopururpa, Purple dye from sea, Remote highlands of Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca

Who made our fabric:
Tlxinda Cooperative, Habucoc Avedano

Natural history and ecology:
Paulina Soccoro sits with her daughter-in-law Maria Hernade Lorenzo, spinning coyuchi cotton, wearing a halter-like blouse said to have originated when the priests of Pinotepa demanded that women must not come to church topless. Wearing a bright purple-striped skirt called a posahuaco, its colors are brilliant shades of purple. Few would know by looking at her skirt, the origins of its dye: pinclopururpa, a mollusk from the sea.

The C known for its ability to produce a rare purple dye, has a long history in the coastal regions of Oaxaca. Unlike the ancient Romans who used mollusks to make Tyrian purple, killing the mollusk in the process, the indigenous Mixtec people in Oaxaca delicately remove the mollusk, a process called "milking," to collect the dye. This method ensures the survival of the mollusk and the sustainability of the dyeing tradition.

What makes this so special: If it was not for Habucoc, the chances of most villagers wearing synthetic-dyed cotton would be high. As Japanese fishermen threatened to illegally poach all of the mollusks, Habucoc, an uneducated Mixtec farmer, traveled all the way to Mexico City to speak before parliament to bring the issue to their attention. Single-handedly, Habucoc convinced the Mexican government to protect their natural resources and inspired them to set up the X National Park, protecting not just a single species, but an entire ecosystem.

 

Natural Dyes in this fabric…

COMMON NAME: Mollusc dye

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Purpura pansa

PART USED: Shells

POTENTIAL MEDICINAL PROPERTIES:

anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, muscle relaxing and pain relieving properties 

More about this fabric…

  • LIVING TRADITION

    Unlike synthetic dyes, the purpura pansa dye is a living tradition and an essential part of the community's weaving heritage. With his son Rafael, Habucoc delicately picks his way through the crashing waves on the coast, "milking" each mollusk to produce the rare purple dye. It takes 50 snails and one hour to dye one skein of cotton yarn that weighs only 20 grams.

  • DEPICTING NATURE

    The threads are now used sparingly, as embellishment along collars with embroidery stitches depicting sea life, flowers, and birds. Or, they are used as a narrow accent stripe or for the intricate, fine designs woven into the cloth using the supplementary weft technique. However, experts warn that this beautiful purple thread may become a thing of the past as the snail is endangered and difficult to find. The conservation efforts of Habucoc and the Mexican government have helped to protect the purpura pansa snail, but continued efforts are needed to ensure its survival and the continuation of this unique and valuable tradition.

  • PERSONAL STORY

    Don Habacuc Avendaño, now in his 80s, has been a snail dyer for over seven decades. From the remote highlands of Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca, Avendaño descended toward Huatulco National Park, where he learned the dangerous art of collecting ink from the purpura pansa snails. Unfortunately, the mollusk is now under threat from illegal poaching and environmental concerns.