FABRIC: AGAVE FIBERS

Regions: Mexico

Fabric Name:
Agave Fiber

Origin:
Agave Sisalana, Agave Fourcroydes, Agave lechuguilla

Who made our fabric:
Unknown

Natural history and ecology:
The agave plant can be used to make agave syrup, biofuels, fertilizers, biodegradable plastic alternatives, tequila, and, of course… fabrics! There are actually 270 different types of agave plants and each species produces different fibers. Most agave fibers are rigid and coarse and thus need to be blended with a softer yarn in order to be used in textile fabrics and garments. The most popular Agave fiber for ropes and twine is sisal (𝘈𝘨𝘒𝘷𝘦 𝘴π˜ͺ𝘴𝘒𝘭𝘒𝘯𝘒). Henequen fiber from 𝘈𝘨𝘒𝘷𝘦 𝘧𝘰𝘢𝘳𝘀𝘳𝘰𝘺π˜₯𝘦𝘴 is also used for these purposes but yields a lower quality product than sisal. The major plantation fiber of eastern Mexico, 𝘈. 𝘧𝘰𝘢𝘳𝘀𝘳𝘰𝘺π˜₯𝘦𝘴 is also used to make Licor del henequΓ©n, a traditional Mexican alcoholic drink.

What makes this so special: Agave plant is almost exclusively harvested by highly skilled workers known as jimadores.

In Mexico, one of the global centers of agave production, jimadores continue to use the same tools and techniques as their ancestors, and will cut and trim agave leaves by hand, one by one, using a flat-bladed knife tool called a β€œcoa”.

The leaves are ready for harvesting from the 3rd year onwards and the older leaves with lengths not less than a meter are harvested. Each plant yields 40–50 leaves/year and has a life cycle of up to 8–30 years. 

 

Agave as a fiber is strong, highly durable, and has a high affinity to humidity.

There are three major Agave fiber extraction methods:

  • Mechanical extraction

    Mechanical extraction is realized either by hand or through mechanical decortication (the separation of the fibers from the woody or pulpy matter or inner core). This method is not efficient in the removal of cementing compounds (i.e waxes, hemicelluloses, lignin, and hydrocarbons) between fibers.

  • Chemical extraction

    The chemical method utilizes acids, alkalis and enzymes to further extract the fibers. The acids cause the fibers to split up into smaller or more slender fibers. Alkalis (e.g. Sodium Hydroxide - NaOH) break down and separate the plant dry matter (lignin and cellulose) holding the fibers together. This process increases the fibers' surface area and lowers their breaking strength. The enzymes (e.g. cellulose, pectinase and hemicellulase) further break down the ligno-cellulostic components around the fibers making them both softer and more pliable.

  • Retting extraction

    The retting extraction process harnesses the natural microbial process to degrade non-fibrous matter acting as the glue between the fibers in woody plant parts and fibers. Critically, this process does not damage the fiber cellulose but allows for easy separation of individual fiber strands and the woody core. This biological process requires warm temperature and moisture to initiate microbial action to occur.